My Favorite Lotion for Crafters...

 

I have people ask me about lotions all the time. Crafters are always looking for a lotion that works and doesn't leave greasy hands behind.  And I think I have tried every lotion available over the years.  I am happy to say I have found my favorite lotion ever!!!  Especially for anyone who crafts, sews, crochets, knits, etc.  I rub the smallest amount on my hands and literally within a minute or two it is absorbed, there is no greasy residue, and miraculously, my hands are super soft!!! Plus I only have to use it every few days.  I love this aloe-based lotion and I have shared it with many people.  I love it so much I have even become a L'BRI Independent Consultant so that I can share the joy with others!!!  

If you are interested in purchasing some you can contact me, or find it here.

Another aspect I love is that it comes in several fragrances, OR you can get fragrance-free, which is my personal favorite!!!  If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me. 

I'm off to piece together a few quilt blocks.

Happy Stitching Friends!!!

Cindy

A Quick Kitchen Tip....

Today I have a little cooking/cleaning tip for you. I've been doing this for years and I assumed everyone else did too. But lately I've mentioned it to others and they say they have never heard of it. Since this is mostly a sewing blog and not a cooking blog, you can look at it this way.....this little tip will get you finished quicker in the kitchen so you can get back to your sewing. So here goes......

Anytime I cook something that yields a really messy pan....like today I made homemade stove-top mac and cheese for part of our lunch. The pan is always cheesy and sticky afterwards. Or, if we have to eat dinner and then head out the door somewhere....like church. I hate leaving a sink full of dishes but sometimes it happens. Or, if you are steaming vegetables and all the water boils out and your pan and its contents burn and get all yucky. I am sure that never happens in your house....but it does in mine from time to time. Or whatever else that happens to create dishes in your house that you really don't want to waste time cleaning. 

Well here is what I do.....I take my box of baking soda from my pantry and sprinkle it on the messy pan, my stack of dirty dishes, my burnt pan, etc. Then I add just a bit of water and I leave it. Yes, I just turn my back on it or walk out the door and I give it not another thought. Then when I either get back home or I am ready to tackle that burnt pan or stack of dishes, I turn the faucet on and run the pan/dishes/whatever under the water. I am telling you that whatever it was stuck to your pan or dishes will literally wash off underneath the flow from the faucet. Sure you can use your dishrag just to make you feel better...but it is rarely needed. 

You can even keep a sprinkle bottle of baking soda on your counter for this purpose...but most times I just grab my box out of the pantry. I am never without baking soda for this reason alone. And I hope you remember this little tip the next time you have messy pans or a stack of dishes you have to leave in the sink. Then you can get back to your sewing that much faster!

Quilt Binding: by Hand or Machine?

Hi Stitching Friends!!!  I have been so busy with parenting, homeschooling, and homeopathy that I have completely neglected my love of all things fabric!!!   I realize I miss it terribly!!!  So I decided I will have to be more intentional about sewing, stitching, etc.

With that in mind, I was determined to start binding this quilt today.  I pieced this quilt several years ago and finished quilting it this past summer.  All it lacks is a nice binding.  Today I started working on that.  

I often have been asked if a quilt binding should be hand-stitched or machine-stitched.  So I thought I would share my thoughts on what I do with my quilts.  

This is going to be a large lap quilt.  I tend to hand-stitch the bindings if they will not be machine-washed excessively.  So for our lap quilts I usually hand-stitch the binding because I do not expect to wash them all the time.  When I hand-stitch the binding I have a bit more control and can make sure it is nice, tight, and wrapped just right around the edge of the quilt.  And I use small hand-stitches that disappear into the backing fabric.  And an extra bonus, for me, is that it is very relaxing and therapeutic to hand-stitch!!!  

Now on the other hand, if I am making a quilt for a baby or small child (like this one I made my for second child 17 years ago), I usually machine-stitch the binding because I know it is going to be machine-washed a lot and I want the binding to be as sturdy as possible.  On the front side of the quilt I "stitch in the ditch" and hope that I catch the back folded edge of the binding with the needle on the back side.  Using my edge-stitch foot on my sewing machine makes this process so much easier!!!

The drawback is that it is a bit more difficult to get a nice and even line of stitching on the back side.  It is certainly not impossible, just a bit more tricky (for me anyway).  Another tip is instead of using straight pins, I use "Wonder Clips" by Clover, and they make the whole process easier whether I hand or machine-stitch.  

The bottom line is that there is no right or wrong answer. Rather, it is a personal choice and I think whatever motivates you to finish the quilt is the best answer!!! I machine-stitched the binding on this quilt years ago because I never would have finished it otherwise.  A finished quilt that is not perfect is better than a perfect quilt that is not finished!!!  That is how I feel about it anyway!!!  :) And remember, sewing should be fun!!!  If it is not fun you won't do it, so make it fun!!!  

Keep Stitching!!!

Make Your Own Size Tags.....

One more thought for you all before I leave these shorts behind and work on something else.

Whenever I make shorts, pants, skirts, skorts, etc. I always make a little tag for the item. The tag is a way for the child to know the back of the garment from the front, as well as to remind me of the size of the garment. You see I always think I am going to remember this stuff....but I don't. I hardly remember what I had for breakfast today!

To make the tag I use a piece of cotton twill tape that I fold in half with raw edges even. Then I slip the raw edges into the casing before I stitch it.

To put the size on the twill tape you can use your sewing machine if it has a basic alphabet option. My machine does have one that I use at times. (Make sure to use a contrasting thread color on the twill tape.) At other times when I am in a hurry, I just use a fine-tip permanent marker to write the size on. Either way works and I do this with all the garments I make.

How Do You Store Your Blue Marking Pens?

I got "educated" at our last Smocking Guild meeting. We somehow started talking about blue marking pens during our meeting and then someone mentioned how they are supposed to be stored. I usually store mine in a small canning jar or a cute little mug.....both ways they are standing vertically on one end or the other. The ladies there told me they are supposed to be stored in a horizontal position so that the ink will stay better longer. I had no idea! And now I have no idea of where I will store them because tossing them in a jar or mug is so much easier for me. So I ask....How do you all store your blue marking pens? Flat/Horizontal? Vertical? Or otherwise?

Flower Pot Pin Cushion......

I had a commenter ask yesterday about the pin cushion in yesterday's post. Yes, I did make this fun little pin cushion. About two years ago our local Smocking Guild was hosting Claudia Newton for a day workshop. I really wanted to make some sort of sewing favor to give all of our attendees. This is what I came up after a bit of daydreaming. I was VERY pregnant at the time and what should have taken a few hours to make took a week or so. But I am so glad I did make them. I use mine ALL the time. A while back I had thought about creating a tutorial to make them. But I never got around to it. Maybe one day I will. But they are very simple to create.

I made twenty-some of these in two different color ways and let the ladies choose which one they wanted. I thought they looked so bright and happy. Well, actually I still think that. I think that is one reason why I still use mine on a daily basis....it makes me smile when I look at it! And isn't it nice to have another reason to smile? I believe so!!!

A Little Cooking/Cleaning Tip....On A Sewing Blog...

Today I have a little cooking/cleaning tip for you. I've been doing this for years and I assumed everyone else did too. But lately I've mentioned it to others and they say they have never heard of it. Since this is mostly a sewing blog and not a cooking blog, you can look at it this way.....this little tip will get you finished quicker in the kitchen so you can get back to your sewing. So here goes......

Anytime I cook something that yields a really messy pan....like today I made homemade stove-top mac and cheese for part of our lunch. The pan is always cheesy and sticky afterwards. Or, if we have to eat dinner and then head out the door somewhere....like church. I hate leaving a sink full of dishes but sometimes it happens. Or, if you are steaming vegetables and all the water boils out and your pan and its contents burn and get all yucky. I am sure that never happens in your house....but it does in mine from time to time. Or whatever else that happens to create dishes in your house that you really don't want to waste time cleaning.

Well here is what I do.....I take my box of baking soda from my pantry and sprinkle it on the messy pan, my stack of dirty dishes, my burnt pan, etc. Then I add just a bit of water and I leave it. Yes, I just turn my back on it or walk out the door and I give it not another thought. Then when I either get back home or I am ready to tackle that burnt pan or stack of dishes, I turn the faucet on and run the pan/dishes/whatever under the water. I am telling you that whatever it was stuck to your pan or dishes will literally wash off underneath the flow from the faucet. Sure you can use your dishrag just to make you feel better...but it is rarely needed.

You can even keep a sprinkle bottle of baking soda on your counter for this purpose...but most times I just grab my box out of the pantry. I am never without baking soda for this reason alone. And I hope you remember this little tip the next time you have messy pans or a stack of dishes you have to leave in the sink. Then you can get back to your sewing that much faster!

*I have no affiliation with Arm & Hammer....just a happy consumer!*

A Tucked Hem Tutorial...

(This jumper has a 3" hem and a 1" tuck)

I had several people email me about how I made the tuck on Elisabeth's last jumper. Actually this is one of my most favorite techniques. And it is SO easy!!!!

(This dress has a 4" hem and a 1" tuck - it's my favorite combination)

I also incorporated it into Elisabeth's Easter dress last year. Do you see it? On this dress it would have stood out more if I had had enough purple rick rack to go around the tuck...but I am still happy with the way it turned out.

(This jumper has a 5" hem and a 1" tuck)

And here is a jumper I just finished this week. My Elisabeth has a bad cough this week so I haven't had the heart to ask her to try on clothes for me. Hopefully this weekend she'll be back to normal and we'll get pictures. Until then....let me show you how easy it is to create a tucked hem.

First you need to decide on your desired hem amount and your desired tuck size. For this jumper I decided I wanted a 5" hem and a 1" tuck. (I am hoping it will last her several years so I can drop the length in a year or so.)

To determine how much fabric to allow for the hem and tuck - add the desired hem (mine is 5") and three times the tuck size (mine is 1" times three which translates to 3"). I ultimately allowed 8" for my hem.

To get started on your fabric, take your desired hem amount (mine was 5") and add one tuck amount (mine was 1"). So I turned the bottom edge of my jumper up 6 " with wrong sides together. Pin and press as you go working along the entire bottom edge.

This is the same step here...I just moved the ruler and relocated the pins so it would be easier to do the next step. You can see the raw edge of my fabric on the left side.

Now again using your ruler, do the exact same thing. I turned my fabric up another 6" because remember I ultimately wanted a 5" hem and a 1" tuck. But whatever your first measurement was...do the exact same thing again. And please use your ruler. I always *think* I can do this without a ruler....but it really helps to have it completely straight and on grain. That way your tuck will hang better in the end. And don't forget to pin and press as you go too.

Now carry this to your sewing machine. Prepare your machine to stitch a straight stitch. And then stitch your tuck. Again I wanted a 1" tuck so I stitched 1" from the edge of the fabric. Straight stitch all the way around removing pins as you go, of course. As a side note....when I was in high school I remember that I never removed pins as I went. I always stitched over them. But machines are much more temperamental these days and a silly stunt like that might land your machine in the repair shop...or worse! So remove pins as you go.

After you stitch all the way around head back to the ironing board and press the tuck and hem down. Now wasn't that easy? And are you ready for the bonus???

This is the inside of the tucked hem. No exposed hand stitches to get caught on your little one's toes or shoes. Everything is very tailored looking on the inside and outside. Just a nice little bonus if you ask me....and all you had to do was make one line of stitching!!! And as your child grows you can take the stitching out and lengthen the dress/jumper. Try this on one of your next jumpers, skirts, etc and see what you think. And if you have any questions let me know and I'll do my best to answer them! Happy Stitching Friends!!!

Bias Strips.....

I have a pet peeve....I can hardly stand to cut bias strips. I have the rotary cutter, ruler and mat....but I have to keep them stored and the thought of dragging them out every time I need them doesn't appeal to me. Instead I usually lay the fabric out and using a ruler and a blue water-soluble marker outline the size strip I need and then cut with scissors. But...if I get a wild hair and pull out the rotary cutter, ruler and mat...then I cut a bunch of bias strips just to have when I need them. I do this a lot with ginghams because I am always using them for piping, bindings, and facings. So today when I was working on a sweet little dress and needed a couple of bias strips for some piping, all I had to do was glance into my jar and see if I had any pre-cut. And I did. And that sure brought a quick smile to my face. I'll be stitching some piping now if you need me!!!

Homemade Spray Starch......

I have a confession to make.......I can be quite a rebel at times. I don't like being told that I have to do something a certain way. Take spray starch for example.....I love how spray starch makes everything crisp and clean looking. But I don't like how spray starch smells....and yes, I have tried several different kinds. I really don't like smells of any sort....except fresh babies....but that's an entirely different story!

So several years ago while ironing Wayne's shirts (and suffering from migraines because of the yucky smell), I decided I wasn't going to conform and use spray starch anymore. But I knew I had to use something. A hot iron alone can make cotton behave somewhat...but throw some spray starch in, and there you find the magic, minus the wrinkles!

The answer was as close as my kitchen. Here is my solution: In a measuring cup, mix 16 oz. of water with 1 Tablespoon of cornstarch. Then pour it into a spray bottle. Shake the bottle while you use it to keep the solution all mixed together. If I have a lot left over I have even been known to store it in the refrigerator until next time.

I use this for all of my ironing....any clothes that need ironing as well as any of my sewing projects where I would normally use purchased spray starch. I have been doing this for almost 10 years now and it works every bit as good. I'll never go back to purchased spray starch! And it is much cheaper! Wayne even likes it and uses it.

Now you know another one of my little secrets......will you still come back and visit with me???

Buttonholes......Part 2

Continuing on.....Let me start by saying - I can't tell you exactly how to make actual buttonholes on your sewing machine (unless yours is identical to mine). Different machines have different buttonhole feet, rules, requirements, etc. So if you are unsure, pull out your manual so you can learn exactly how best to use your machine. Your manual is your friend....cheesy, I know....but oh, so true!!!

And again, this may not be applicable to your machine...but it is on mine. The bobbin case on my machine requires different threading when doing buttonholes. It really isn't a requirement as the machine will make fine buttonholes without this step. But it makes even better buttonholes with this step. On my bobbin case there is this metal finger with a hole in it. The thread comes off the bobbin and is inserted through the finger and then placed in the bobbin compartment of the machine. This gives the final buttonhole a more rounded appearance on the top of the fabric.

Even though I am always ready to be finished with the buttonholes before I even start....I always make a test buttonhole first. This checks to make sure I have everything set up properly and gives me an opportunity to check and make sure the buttonhole is truly the correct size for the button. I use the same fabric and number of layers for the test buttonhole that was used for the garment. And I really do take one of the buttons and fit it through the buttonhole. Really.

Another thing I do, although you can't see it in any of these pictures.....I always use some sort of stabilizer. You can use the stabilizer that you buy in the stores....OR you can be bad like me and just use plain paper or even a paper towel. Honestly, I always have scrap paper by my sewing machine and generally, I just grab a piece of it and "float" it under my fabric which is under my buttonhole foot and on top of the feed dogs. You can pin it if it doesn't want to stay put...but just remember to keep the pins away from any of the sewing action. Yes, I realize that paper can dull my needle quicker....but I really think adding the stabilizer is worth it because a buttonhole made with it will be so much better and generally won't "tunnel" or look all wonky.

Ok, now we are really ready to begin...using the Wonder Tape as a guide for the placement of the buttonhole presser foot, we will start stitching. This tape is such a wonderful tool because it really helps place the buttonholes so they are all consistently placed from the edge. I place the back edge of my presser foot right up against the front edge of the Wonder Tape. The Wonder Tape is completely hidden under my presser foot or I would have shown you a picture.

So, I am going to go ahead and make all of my buttonholes......five of them on this top. I try my best to make all of them at one sitting, if possible.

Here is the finished buttonhole and you can see the placement tape.

Here I have removed the tape.

Now you need to open the buttonholes so they are functional. I just use my scissors but you must be careful. I fold the buttonhole in half and making sure my scissors are only on the fabric inside the buttonhole I make a small clip.

Then I unfold the fabric and further open the buttonholes. I place the tips of my scissors into the buttonhole and carefully snip into the corners. You can also place a straight pin at each edge to keep you from cutting too far into the corner of the buttonhole. I forgot to demonstrate that here for you. I also don't use Fray Check on my buttonholes...but I know that some do.

Next we need to mark the placement for the buttons. Over the years the best way I have found to do this is to layer the back facings of the shirt. In the above picture the back edge facings are directly on top of each other with right sides of the shirt together. (Can you see that my buttonholes ran off of my facing....not good!!! But that is why I make prototypes....so I can correct these things in the next versions.) After stacking the facings I use a blue water soluble marker and poke through each buttonhole to the other side of the shirt where the buttons will be.

Then you'll have a wonderful mark all ready for your button. Works perfect every time!!!

Next, I re-use each piece of Wonder Tape to hold each button while I secure it on with the sewing machine. I posted about that here awhile ago.

And ta-da....that is it. I know this seems like it took me forever....but in actuality......the whole deal from starting up until I am tying off the threads from my buttons only takes me 30 minutes or less. But just remember, I have been doing this for awhile and this is my process. If you are trying to follow any directions that are not familiar to you it will take you longer until it becomes your norm. So don't get discouraged!!!

Hopefully I can get a finished picture of the top on Elisabeth later today.

I hope that you found this buttonhole tutorial helpful. And like I mentioned at the beginning, my way isn't the only way or even the "right" way I am sure. But it has worked for me over all these years....and if it helps you out in any way....even better!!!! If you have any thoughts or questions let me know and I will do my best to answer them.

However, I do ask that you not copy my information. Using the knowledge for your personal sewing is one thing....but please do not steal my information and then turn around and try to profit from it. If you like what you see here, feel free to refer people to my blog. I really do enjoy blogging....but I have been burned by some thoughtless and unsavory people along the way. If that continues it will limit my future ability to offer helpful tips and techniques. So I appreciate your respect and common courtesy. Thank you!!! Now....get busy stitching!!!!

Buttonholes......Part 1

Let me start by saying buttonholes are not so difficult that it requires a multi-part lesson. However, in order for me to put this together with four little ones under foot...including a baby...it quickly became apparent I would have to break it down into smaller portions for my benefit.

Everyone seems to have their favorite way of making buttonholes (and for some - avoiding buttonholes) and I am no exception. Fortunately, to my knowledge, there is no 100% correct way. I am sure my way isn't perfect for everyone but it has evolved over 30+ years of sewing for myself and others. I have learned tricks and tips here and there through trial and error and now I will share them with you.

The top in the picture above is designed to button up the back. So I first check to make sure the left and right sides are equal so that the buttons/buttonholes will look right once completed. Fortunately, they do look even...so I continue on. If they did not, I would head back to the sewing machine with my seam ripper and make both sides even by adjusting the hem.

Also I should mention that I will apply my buttonholes to the right side of the top back and then sew the buttons to the left side. People seem to feel pretty strongly about which side they apply buttonholes. You can make that decision for yourself. I mentioned my thoughts here several years ago.

Next, I pull out my Simflex sewing gauge and decide how many buttonholes I desire. At first I thought I wanted four buttonholes....but the distance would have been 3 1/2" in between buttonholes so I decided to increase the buttonhole number to five to decrease the spacing. I usually put my top buttonhole approx. 1/2" down from the top edge. In the case of this top, I want to center the buttonhole on the contrasting band and it just so happens that is at the 1/2" mark anyway. After I determine the spacing, I either make a small dot with a blue water soluble marker or place a pin at the exact spot. In this case, I used the pins.

If you don't have a Simflex, and I did not for many years, then I mark the top buttonhole about 1/2" down from the top edge and then I mark the desired placement of the bottom buttonhole. Then after deciding how many buttonholes you want in between, just divide to determine the placement of the remaining buttonholes.

Just a closer picture of the pins. The pins are equally spaced on this top even though the pictures may make you think otherwise.

Then I pull out my Wonder Tape and cut one small piece per buttonhole. Any thin 1/4" wide tape would work. I use the Wonder Tape because I have it and therefore it is easy. Plus I will be able to re-use it when I sew on the buttons.

I place the edge of the tape along the edge of the fabric where I want the buttonhole to be. This tape will help me make each buttonhole the same distance from the finished edge.

When I am working on this alone I do all this prep work while sitting at my sewing machine. And I only cut one piece of Wonder Tape and use it the entire time. For example, I will measure and make the placement with pins/marker....and then I use a small piece of tape for the first buttonhole. After I make the buttonhole I lift up the tape and move it to make the next buttonhole, and so on and so forth. Does that make sense? Basically this tape is expensive and it can be lifted and reused if you are careful.

Next I further mark the buttonhole placement before I remove the pins. I take a pen and draw an arrow on the tape pointing exactly where the buttonhole should be based on the pin marking. Now you can remove the pins.

Ok, I know this sounds like it must take forever....but I promise you.....had I not been taking pictures I would have had this entire shirt marked up to this point in less than 2 minutes. Like I said before, I usually do all of this while sitting at the sewing machine. Are you all still with me?

Stay tuned because I will be back soon to finish.....until then....Happy Stitching!!!

Top Stitching......

Last post I mentioned that I love my edge stitch foot. One of the ways I use this foot is to top stitch seams and some edges. I think about every seam and edge before I start sewing. Then I determine which seams and edges I should top stitch. I truly believe that well-placed top stitching elevates a garment from homemade to handmade. And don't you just love these fabrics? I am making a shirt for Elisabeth.....more details to come soon!!!!

My Most Favorite Sewing Machine Foot........

As you all know I have four little ones and we homeschool. Therefore I am with my four little ones 24/7. So since I can't be sewing all the time....I do think about sewing as often as I can. One thing I often think about is my favorite sewing machine foot. My most favorite foot by far...is the edge stitch foot. For my Bernina...that is foot #10. It seems like I use this foot every time I sit down at the machine. I use it for some hems like the one above. And I also use it for edge stitching and top stitching by moving my needle position and using the guide on the foot to run along the folded edge of the fabric. I also use it for stitching in the ditch by running the guide "in the ditch" and keeping my needle in the center position so that it stitches exactly where I want it to. I know I use it in other situations too...but my brain just can't think of them right now.

If you don't have a foot like this yet....see if your machine has one available....you will love it!!!!

Stain...Be Gone!!!!

Some of you may remember this sweet dress I made for Elisabeth a few months back. I used the Miss Madeline pattern by Samantha of The Handmade Dress. We love this dress. Anyway....last week my girls were playing with Silly Putty and guess what? Yes, that is correct...it managed to end up all over the front of the dress....about a four-inch circle of Silly Putty. Not attractive! I looked on-line for solutions to try. I was very apprehensive...but I went for the hand-sanitizer option. I had little to lose at this point and WD-40 seemed way too harsh. I stood at the kitchen sink and put a glob of Purell in my hand and rubbed it into the fabric and then rinsed with water. I repeated several times and amazingly it worked!! But now I was left with a stain caused by the Silly Putty. I then went to the laundry area and grabbed the stain stick we were given for free when Emily was born. (Isn't it funny the free items they give you when you give birth to your first child?) I smeared it on...and left it on the washer for a day or two. Then I washed it with the next batch of kid clothes.

And it really worked! It really, really worked!! I am amazed!!! And happy!!! And so is Elisabeth!!! The Silly Putty??? Well what remains is now 6 feet up in a kitchen cabinet...it may never see sunlight again!!!!

****If you ever need to remove Silly Putty from fabric please use your common sense and don't hold me accountable if something gets ruined!!!

Sewing Darts....Quick and Easy!

Before I had children, I worked outside of the home and I actually used to make a lot of my skirts, dresses, tops, etc. And if you sew any ladies clothing you know you will be sewing some darts. I find darts to be relatively rare in children's clothing though, so I have not made many lately. However, these halloween costumes have eight darts per dress. So....fortunately I had my past dart-experience to fall back on when I realized I'd have to make sixteen darts total!! Ack!!!



You may have figured me out by now...I do not like fiddly things. And transferring markings from the pattern to my fabric....fiddly in my book! I will cut little snips into the fabric with my scissors for every mark that I can get away with. The rest I usually just guess at. But here is my approach for darts. I have been doing this for many years...and it always works for basic darts.









I put the pattern piece on top of the fabric piece and cut little snips into the fabric at the "legs" of the dart (that would be two snips...one for each "leg"). Then I stick a straight pin through the end of the dart and straight through the fabric. While the pin is still through the fabric I mark the spot that it enters the fabric with a water-soluble marker, chalk, etc. Above I used a water-soluble marker. Now you are ready to head to the machine.






I fold the fabric aligning the little snips (dart legs) together and make sure the marking for the tip of the dart falls right on the fold.

Pull out a little extra thread from your machine before you begin. Then place your presser foot right at the beginning of the snips and take a few little stitches.

Then raise your presser foot WITH THE NEEDLE IN THE DOWN POSITION so your fabric stays put. Then pull the loose thread tails towards the front of the machine and position them so they touch the mark that indicates the tip of the dart.

Put your presser foot back down and stitch along the line that is created by the thread tails...while holding the tails still on the dart tip.

Within seconds your dart will be finished and probably perfectly positioned without spending your time transferring all those markings. It is quick and simple and that makes me happy!!!

***Sorry about the white fabric and the bad photos....but this is the actual fabric piece I am using to make the costume.***

My Technique for Puffy Sleeves.....

Whenever I need to press little puffy sleeves I have a technique that I use. I would enjoy having a puff iron that is made just for this...but I don't need to puff sleeves often enough to spend the money. So, I thought I'd share with you all how I puff sleeves when the time does arrive.



I unbutton the garment so that I can access the sleeves from the inside. (The dress I am showing here is the little dress I just recently finished. I'll show the entire dress in the next post.)

Then I spray some starch evenly into the sleeve area.

I wait a few moments until the starch is absorbed into the fabric and then I turn on the blow dryer and aim it into the sleeve. The air will puff out the sleeve like a balloon...which is fun. And it will dry the fabric that has just been starched. Move the blow dryer around so you don't scorch the fabric.

Then after you remove the blow dryer you will have a nicely puffed sleeve. Now repeat on the other sleeve and enjoy your new creation!!!