Thursday, March 03, 2011

A Tucked Hem Tutorial...

(This jumper has a 3" hem and a 1" tuck)

I had several people email me about how I made the tuck on Elisabeth's last jumper. Actually this is one of my most favorite techniques. And it is SO easy!!!!

(This dress has a 4" hem and a 1" tuck - it's my favorite combination)

I also incorporated it into Elisabeth's Easter dress last year. Do you see it? On this dress it would have stood out more if I had had enough purple rick rack to go around the tuck...but I am still happy with the way it turned out.

(This jumper has a 5" hem and a 1" tuck)

And here is a jumper I just finished this week. My Elisabeth has a bad cough this week so I haven't had the heart to ask her to try on clothes for me. Hopefully this weekend she'll be back to normal and we'll get pictures. Until then....let me show you how easy it is to create a tucked hem.

First you need to decide on your desired hem amount and your desired tuck size. For this jumper I decided I wanted a 5" hem and a 1" tuck. (I am hoping it will last her several years so I can drop the length in a year or so.)

To determine how much fabric to allow for the hem and tuck - add the desired hem (mine is 5") and three times the tuck size (mine is 1" times three which translates to 3"). I ultimately allowed 8" for my hem.

To get started on your fabric, take your desired hem amount (mine was 5") and add one tuck amount (mine was 1"). So I turned the bottom edge of my jumper up 6 " with wrong sides together. Pin and press as you go working along the entire bottom edge.

This is the same step here...I just moved the ruler and relocated the pins so it would be easier to do the next step. You can see the raw edge of my fabric on the left side.

Now again using your ruler, do the exact same thing. I turned my fabric up another 6" because remember I ultimately wanted a 5" hem and a 1" tuck. But whatever your first measurement the exact same thing again. And please use your ruler. I always *think* I can do this without a ruler....but it really helps to have it completely straight and on grain. That way your tuck will hang better in the end. And don't forget to pin and press as you go too.

Now carry this to your sewing machine. Prepare your machine to stitch a straight stitch. And then stitch your tuck. Again I wanted a 1" tuck so I stitched 1" from the edge of the fabric. Straight stitch all the way around removing pins as you go, of course. As a side note....when I was in high school I remember that I never removed pins as I went. I always stitched over them. But machines are much more temperamental these days and a silly stunt like that might land your machine in the repair shop...or worse! So remove pins as you go.

After you stitch all the way around head back to the ironing board and press the tuck and hem down. Now wasn't that easy? And are you ready for the bonus???

This is the inside of the tucked hem. No exposed hand stitches to get caught on your little one's toes or shoes. Everything is very tailored looking on the inside and outside. Just a nice little bonus if you ask me....and all you had to do was make one line of stitching!!! And as your child grows you can take the stitching out and lengthen the dress/jumper. Try this on one of your next jumpers, skirts, etc and see what you think. And if you have any questions let me know and I'll do my best to answer them! Happy Stitching Friends!!!


Jan M said...

This is one of my favorite ways of hemming, too! Great tutorial!

Cindy said...

Thanks ladies!! It was fun to put together and I hope it is helpful for some.

Goosegirl said...

This is my favorite way to hem too. I just did it with Ahnalin's Laura Ingalls dress last week. Growth Tuck hems just stay put longer. And they are so cute too!

Martha said...

and it is easy-peasy to add lace if you are willing to sew once more around the bottom of the dress. . . the lace is sewn on the right side of the dress just below the seam of the tuck. Iron the tuck down, covering the seam

sstone said...

Thank you so much! This was very helpful. I had one question. I didn't understand the part about 8 inches. Where does that come in?

Cindy said...

sstone....thanks! On my example the 8" was my calculation for how much fabric to allow for the hem before I started. Does that help any?

Mosaic Magpie said...

Just getting ready to hem a dress and found your tutorial. Thanks, this sounds easy to do!

Susan said...

Thank you for this simple explanation. I saw one on Deb's blog and apparently found the same place she did when I searched! =)

BlessedSewer said...

Great lesson!! I'm looking forward to heming my next dress!!
What if you wanted a double pin tuck, how would you do that?

BlessedSewer said...

Great lesson! I'm looking forward to seeing my next hem!
What if you wanted a double pintuck, how would you do that?

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